photo: marjorie o'brien
Several years ago, while working for a company in Orem, Utah, I was taken to the Thai Chili Garden for my first exposure to thai food. I started with Pad Thai and quickly worked my way into Spicey Pad Ped before taking the plunge into thai curries. I fell quite in love with mussamun curry. I queried the proprietors for their recipe without success and I googled for potential recipes as well. I finally found a recipe which looked promising.
After investing well over $50 in exotic ingredients and spending several hours grinding whole spices by hand with a mortar and pestle, I rustled up the worst approximation of mussamun imaginable and terminated my efforts to make this thai dish at home.
Then, a few months ago, Nancie McDermott's "Real Thai, The Best of Thailand's Regional Cooking" caught my eye as I was doing some poking for information on sourdough bread in the cooking section of a local Barnes & Noble. I bought Nancie's book and worked up the wherewithal for another attempt over the next few weeks.
The mussamun was exquisite. It is also labor intensive and I better understand why it is a special occasion curry in Thailand.
Do to my lifestyle changes earlier this year, I've had to make adjustments to the recipes from Real Thai. I've noted the omissions and substitutions at the end of each of the applicable recipes linked below.
Prep time: 30 minutes
Total time: About 2 hours
Makes: about 10 servings
5 cups light coconut milk
2 pounds pork steak cut into small pieces
1 cup coconut cream
1/3 cup mussamun curry paste
2 tablespoons Splenda
3 tablespoons tamarind liquid
12 whole cardamom pods
6 cinnamon sticks
2 pounds red potatoes, washed and cut into chunks
1 large onion cut into thick wedges
1/2 cup dry roasted cashews
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
In a heavy soup pot bring the coconut milk to a gentle boil over medium heat. Add pork and reduce heat to a low simmer for about 1 hour, or until the pork is thoroughly cooked.
In a heavy skillet over medium heat, warm the coconut cream until oil begins to appear on the surface. Stir in the curry paste and continue cooking for 3-4 additional minutes.
Combine the curry into the soup pot. Add the potatoes, cardamom, cinnamon, tamarind liquid, and Splenda. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Add the onions and cashews and continue to simmer until the potatoes are cooked. Add lime juice to sharpen the flavor.
Nancie's recipe calls for additional fish sauce(3 tablespoons) and brown or palm sugar instead of Splenda (2 tablespoons). Do to my lifestyle change early in 2005, the dreaded middle-aged white man's disease, and a suboptimal gene set, I've left the fish sauce out of my curry and swapped brown sugar for Splenda with acceptable results. Nancie also calls for beef and dry roasted peanuts; but, I was introduced to mussamun with pork and cashews and prefer them in mine.
Derived from "Real Thai, The Best of Thailand's Regional Cooking" by Nancie McDermott.
Prep time: 40 minutes
Makes: about 1 1/2 cups
1/3 cup dried red chilies
2 tablespoons whole cumin seed
1 teaspoon whole corriander seed
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground mace
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
3 stalks fresh lemongrass
1 tablespoon finely chopped, peeled fresh galanga or ginger
1/2 cup chopped garlic
1/2 cup chopped yellow onion
Stem and remove seeds from chilies. Coarsely chop and soak in warm water for about 20 minutes.
Measure spices, whole seeds in one bowl, ground in another. Dry fry whole spices 3-5 minutes over medium heat stirring or shaking to prevent burning. Return to bowl to cool. Dry fry ground spices 2-3 minutes as above. Grind whole spices with a spice grinder. Combine all spices together.
Trim lemongrass stalks. Remove grassy tops and hard root bottom yielding about a 3 inch stalk. Remove hard outer leaves. Slice stalk crosswise as thinly as possible. Chop slices.
Add all ingredients to a blender and blend until smooth using the chili soaking water to facilitate blending.
Store in a glass jar, covered tightly. Keeps for about 1 month in the refrigerator.
Nancie's recipe calls for additional salt (2 teaspoons) and shrimp paste (1 tablespoon). Do to the dreaded middle-aged white man's disease and a suboptimal gene set, I've left both of these out of my curry paste.
Derived from "Real Thai, The Best of Thailand's Regional Cooking" by Nancie McDermott.